「樓上雅座」"Upstairs Café "

《樓上雅座》- 從冰室到茶餐廳展覽

 

西多士、蛋撻、奶茶、菠蘿包等茶餐廳出品,最近獲傳媒選為「香港不可缺少的40美食」之列,指茶餐廳是香港飲食文化的代表,實在一點也不為過。

冰室是茶餐廳的前身,亦是殖民地時代產物,讓負擔不起高檔西餐的普羅大眾,也有機會品嚐西式美食,如,紅茶、西多士、奶油筒等。翻看粵語電影,當中不少以冰室作為場景,如演活時代女性的蕭芳芳嘆著奶油西餅與拍檔傾生意,或是在幽暗燈光的冰室內,富家子謝賢與嘉玲,喝著咖啡談心。

然而踏入六、七十年代,隨著美式快餐連同美國流行文化相繼登陸,適逢香港經濟發展進入黃金時代,凡事講求速度與效率。對大部份打工仔來說,食午飯亦由社交活動變成單純滿足生理需要的動作。從前讓大眾消閑、談心的冰室,陸續轉型成為茶餐廳。茶餐廳除了以價廉物美作招徠,同時提供多元化選擇,除了保留冰室原有的西點,亦引入炒粉、麵、飯等飽肚之選,為分秒必爭的香港人提供一個食快餐的好地方。

展覽日期: 2010年8月30日至2011年1月 2日
展覽開幕: 11/9/2010

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《Upstairs Cafe》 - an exhibition of Bing Sutt and Cha Chaan Teng

Hong-Kong-style French toast, egg tarts, milk tea, pineapple buns, etc. are all products of cha chaan tengs (literally means “tea food halls”), which are Hong-Kong-style cafés. These foods have recently been listed in an article entitled “40 Hong Kong foods we can’t live without”. This shows that cha chaan tengs are undoubtedly synonymous with Hong Kong food culture.

Bing sutts (literally means “ice rooms”) are the predecessors of cha chaan tengs. Bing sutts emerged during the colonial era and provided versions of Western comfort foods and iced drinks, for example, lotus seeds iced drink, poached egg in boiling water, cream-filling cone, etc., at affordable prices for ordinary people. In Cantonese movies, a lot of scenes were set in bing sutts, for example: imagine Josephine Siao Fong-Fong, who vividly portrayed a voguish woman, munching cream-filling cone and discussing business with partners; or the refined Patrick Tse Yin and Ka Ling having intimate talks with coffee in a gloomily lit bing sutt.

In the 1960’s and 1970’s, following the arrival of American-style fast-food chain restaurants along with American popular culture, coupled with a booming economy in Hong Kong, everything demanded speed and efficiency. Lunch was no longer for social needs but for physical fulfillment instead and bing sutts, being more suitable as a place for relaxation and dating, were gradually transformed into cha chaan tengs. Besides serving fine foods at affordable prices, cha chaan tengs also provided a more diverse choice; in addition to maintaining the choice provided by bing sutts, cha chaan tengs introduced a variety of satiety foods, e.g. fried rice vermicelli, fried noodles, fried rice etc., in order to provide time constrained Hong Kongers with a good place to grab a bite.

 

Exhibition Period: 30th Aug 2010 - 2nd Jan 2011
Opening: 11/9/2010

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